Bowery Meat Company (9 East First Street, 212-460-5255)
Caviar-topped deviled eggs? Forty-eight-dollar duck lasagna for two? At Bowery Meat Company, John McDonald and chef Josh Capon steer the brawny, staid steakhouse format toward a prosperous future. The team behind buzzy spots Lure Fishbar and Sessanta update chophouse traditions with contemporary concessions. The retro room feels clubby, without the usual suffocating fog of testosterone, even though there’s plenty of namesake animal protein: hefty lamb and veal chops and a truly spectacular slab of deckle — the fatty cap that surrounds the rib eye — rolled up into a salsa-verde-topped “Bowery Steak” served over buttery whipped potatoes. Share massive cuts of beef, including dry-aged T-bones, côte de bœuf, and châteaubriand with chasseur demi-glace sauce. Dessert channels inner children with a s’mores sundae, a peanut-butter-and-jelly number festooned with strawberry cereal crunch.
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